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The decor is pretty sports bar-like, but more open and light, especially if you score one of the tables up front lining floor-to-ceiling windows along Capitol Street. The menu also fits the theme, although there's a noticeable nod to Greek cuisine, which suits me just fine. In fact, my first visit was prompted after reading about the restaurant's unique "Deep Fried Feta" appetizer. Bite-size, batter-dipped cubes of Feta cheese are fried and elegantly plated with Kalamata olives, tomatoes, cucumbers and onion with a tangy little dressing. It's not gimmicky, just good. For lunch I tried the Lavash Flatbread Wrap - a nice pocket of spinach, caramelized onions, red bell peppers, cucumbers, tomatoes and the "vegetable du jour" (love the spontaneity) with a light vinaigrette - and a good Angus burger. The boys loved the mini-sliders, mini corndogs and, apparently rebelling against mini anything, the Home Wrecker Hot Dog, a massive foot-long, all-beef behemoth. But the surprise of the group was Amy's marinated grilled salmon, one of the most perfectly seasoned and cooked pieces of fish I've had in a long time. I wasn't expecting that at a sports bar. Overall, the food's been nice and service competent, although one bartender in particular went above and beyond to make guests feel welcome. (Sorry I can't remember your name, but you deserve a raise. Boss: He's the guy who suggests guests add gyro meat to the triple grilled cheese featuring cheddar, Swiss and feta. Ingenious!) All in all, though, I've heard pretty good things about Adelphia, and it's definitely on my list of places to revisit in the coming months. IF YOU GO: Adelphia Sports Bar & Grille at 218 Capitol St. in Charleston opens at 11 a.m. weekdays, noon Saturday and 1 p.m. Sunday. They close "around 1 a.m.," depending on the crowd. For more information, call (304) 343-5551 or visit www.adelphiasportsbar.com. |

CHARLESTON, W.Va. -- Inspired by Gazette food writer Julie Robinson's May 18 article, I recently made the new Adelphia Sports Bar and Grill on Capitol Street a dining destination. I have found that the Greek cuisine is one of the best-rounded for me and is always a top choice when seeking healthy bites. I can always count on it to satisfy. (My apologies to Italians -- you rank first in my heart and a very close second, menu-wise, followed by any Middle Eastern and Indian.) Truth be told, Adelphia garnered a second visit because of my favorable experience the first time. Plus, I didn't get to taste everything I wanted. There is enough interest for several repeat meals. The first impression (that there is something very good happening in owner Deno Stanley's kitchen) was upheld on a subsequent visit. My outtakes from Adelphia's menu that reflect healthy choices begin with the marinated grilled shrimp appetizer with fresh tomato and cucumber. Check the soup, which changes daily, for Stanley's minestrone. Move on to the lavash flatbread all-vegetable wrap; gyro sandwich and house-made tzatziki; turkey burger, grilled chicken and roasted turkey deli sandwiches on eight-grain bread. You could ask that the gyro be placed on the eight-grain bread instead of pita. The turkey burger and grilled chicken can be eaten with or without buns or on the multigrain bread. All the salads are perfect for a light meal and offer traditional Greek with the options of no lettuce, but an addition of hummus; mixed greens with craisins, almonds and crunchy apples; and spinach with strawberries, oranges, and toasted spiced pecans. The Greek salad dressing, made from Stanley's grandmother's recipe, is a hit -- light, not oily and not too sharp or tangy. Yiayia got it right those many years ago. Adelphia Sports Bar and Grill opens daily at 11 a.m. The Greek chicken, grilled salmon and land-and-sea (steak-and-shrimp) kebabs, which are available after 5 p.m., are excellent beneficial entrees. By Julie Robinson CHARLESTON, W.Va. -- Deno Stanley remembers ordering lunch at the McCrory's lunch counter when he was a kid. Now he stands on the other side of a counter in the same building, as the owner of Adelphia Sports Bar & Grille, the restaurant he opened recently at 218 Capitol St. "It was easy for me to see the vision of what we wanted here," Stanley said. Stanley developed Adelphia's menu, a fusion of dishes from his Greek heritage and sports bar fare, with the help of an old friend and Culinary Institute of America graduate Douglas Miller. Miller came up with an unusual menu item Stanley thinks he just might have invented. He dips chunks of feta in a light tempura batter, then fries it to form a crispy exterior. Deep fried feta is served on pita triangles with kalamata olives, tomatoes, cucumber and onion drizzled with Yia Yia's dressing, made from his Greek grandmother's recipe."I don't even like feta, but this is great," said Stanley. That's right. The grandson of Greek immigrants doesn't like feta. Gyros are the other signature item on the menu. He wraps the gyro meat in a pita with lettuce, tomatoes, onions and creamy tzatziki sauce, also made from Zoe Stanley's recipe. Other Greek specialties include marinated shrimp, Greek and hummus salads, baked chicken and spanakopita Standard sports bar fare such as wings, sliders, nachos, burgers, sweet potato and regular fries, onion rings, grilled chicken or deli sandwiches join a variety of salads, soups, turkey burgers, lavash (flatbread) vegetable wraps and deep-fried green beans on the menu. Dinner entrees feature grilled salmon, shrimp, filet mignon and New York strip steak. Lunch business is brisk. Stanley didn't hang a sign out front for the first four days, but the word spread and the lunch crowd increased steadily every day. Adelphia is open daily, from 11 a.m. through the wee hours of the night. If that sounds vague, it's because Stanley is waiting to see if the crowds will come after the bars close in the evenings. "The kitchen will open until midnight, and we'll serve a limited menu after that," he said. "I'm following my grandfather's philosophy. He said that if they know we're open, they'll come."
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